Saints, Martyrs, Treasures, and Beer; or, Day-tripping in Köln

More summer on the road. . . This time: 
Köln, Germany

July 17-18, 2016

After venturing for a few days trips on our own, including our maiden voyage on the Autobahn, we decided to go big AND go home. We rented an Audi A3 and drove like a bat out of hell across Germany, including to a place my husband sent a few years as a child. Before we got there, we first made a pit stop in Köln for the night.

What to know

First, in America it's Cologne, but now that you are in Germany, it's Köln. My German pronunciation is absolutely atrocious, so I just say it the American way but spell it the German way. . .

I visited Köln and its Dom, or Cathedral,  4 years ago, and my husband visited it, well. . . about 40 years ago. But that's okay. It's was the first trip for both the kids, and it never ceases to amaze, whether it's your first, second, or tenth trip.

We came in during the afternoon and stayed until about noon the next day, so we did not get the few days-long experience I had a few years ago. With our main goal to get to Prüm, where my husband lived a few years during the glorious 1970s as a wee lad, we were okay with a little less than 24 hours in the city as a pit stop on the way. I would recommend 2-3 days if you want to experience all there is to do and see in Köln.

Köln has beautiful public artworks (and some very whimsical ones, like a giant upside-down ice cream cone on the corner of a building). If you walk along the Rhine river, you'll find a chocolate museum. There are outdoor cafés and fine dining, and a shopping district with everything you can imagine you'd want to buy.

Cultural stuff and what to see 

The first thing you notice when you drive into town is the Dom---the Cologne Cathedral. It defines the skyline and really symbolizes the city. The Cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (boy, we seem to pick a lot of those for this vacation), noted for being "an exceptional work of human creative genius" and "a powerful testimony to the strength and persistence of the Christian belief in medieval and modern Europe."

I've heard two stories about Köln during WWII. The undisputed fact is the city was completely flattened, save the Dom. And even it was heavily damaged in areas. One story goes that the Allied forces were told not to destroy the beautiful and historical church and out of respect, tried not to bomb it. The other story is the Dom, with its enormous size and distinctive footprint, made an easy-to-spot landmark for raids and bombings, so it was spared for its navigational use.

It's sort of like Life of Pi. Do you want to believe a more cynical or a more benevolent version of the story? The truth is probably a lot more complicated, and being neither German nor a historian, I'm not going to weigh in on this one.

You walk up and notice how massive it is. You also notice that it seems to be in a constant state of renovation. There is always scaffolding somewhere around the building.

From the outside, the detail of the stonework is amazing. You want a Gothic cathedral, you've got one here. You've got your flying buttresses. You've got your towers. There are gargoyles and downspouts, and everywhere you look, there seem to be saints hiding in many nooks and crannies.

The gargoyles are downspouts are animals, demons, and demonic chimeras---seriously creepy stuff going on. As cute as the dog is above, he's probably supposed to be some hound of hell.

As you get closer, the detail is mind-blowing. Over the doorways, and even the door handles, all have some sort of decorative nature, mostly of some saint I don't know or some symbolism I don't understand. Not being Catholic has its disadvantages when you decide to go cathedral-hoping through Europe. 

The Dom is a working church, so there are scheduled services. You see people lighting candles and there are confessional booths all over (although I didn't see anyone entering or exiting). I was here in 2012, so I knew what to expect walking in, but still. . . when I entered, I literally gasped and clasped my hands to my heart, because it is such a beautiful space and it truly takes my breath away. Being neither Catholic nor particularly religious, I can't really explain how I feel about this place, but it's definitely somewhere that touches my heart and makes me feel honored to be in such a sacred space.

You can pay to view the tombs below or climb the towers, but we didn't choose either. However, we did go on a self-tour of the treasures of the Dom. We took an elevator to what seemed to be a basement---the walls were hundreds of years old, and there were gorgeous tunics embroidered with gold, crowns, scepters, and many pieces made of precious metals and encrusted with stones. Many belonged to famous archbishops and there were artifacts from various saints. 

We were good little tourists and did not take pictures (because that's what the sign clearly said---a camera with a line through it is pretty clear), so you'll just have to use your imagination.  I found the artifacts beautiful, but I prefer what's inside the Dom over the treasure underneath. 

Being non-Catholic and not really understand who all the saints are (that appears to be the ongoing theme of this story) didn't deter me from recognizing this guy: 

St. Christopher! Patron Saint of Travelers

Also at the feet of many tombs in effigy there are angels, lions, and dogs. I heard a guide tell a group that lions and dogs at the feet of the tombs symbolize loyalty. 

cute little cherub

dogs and lions at the feet

Who are buried in these tombs? Crusaders, archbishops. Many religious martyrs. Important Catholic people. Did I mention that I'm not Catholic??? And that it all sort of confuses me? But that's okay, too. We saw people from all over the world, speaking several languages, taking in the beauty of the Dom. I'm guess many were not Catholic, either, but you don't have to be of that faith (or any faith, really) to enjoy a beautiful building that has survived war, political turmoil, and even the elements. 

tomb of the Three Wise Men---I do know who they are, thankyouverymuch.

Tapestries, tombs, mosaics, and monuments---that's just one small part of what you see at the Dom. I strongly suggest paying the 1€ donation and getting a brochure. There's a map and enough info that you can do a self-guided tour. I prefer the walking-around-and-gawking method of visiting cathedrals, but if you are truly into the symbolism, mythology, and stories behind all the artifacts, I know they have English language tours available for a small fee.

I love the stained glass windows, the mosaic floors, and the different materials used throughout to create religious tributes and monuments---fabric, wood, metals, and stone. 

Other Diversions

Other than the Dom, I suggest you find a bar that serves Kölsch. (First church, then beer. That's definitely not something you are taught to do in the Baptist church). It's a barley pale-ale served in short, thin glasses. The waiters bring them around in a carrier that has anywhere from 5-20 in it. They keep the beer coming until you tell them to stop. It's not like drinking a dark stout out of a large stein, so it's okay (at least for a little while) to keep them coming. Kölsch tastes light and refreshing, especially since it's HOT during the afternoons in July in Köln (and very few buildings, especially the older ones, are air conditioned).

Being Sunday, many of the stores were closed (this is very common throughout Germany), so we did a little window shopping and checked in early to rest up for our next day's adventure to Prüm and then Metz, France.

What I learned

When I was here in 2012, I was with a group of adults who were ready to eat, shop, and drink. We also took in the Dom, but we walked, walked, walked, and stayed a few days in the process. In addition, it was Gay Pride weekend. I have managed to somehow catch several cities during Gay Pride during vacation (no complaints---definitely entertaining), but that was one of the wildest and craziest ones I've ever witnessed.

So a few years later, here I am with my little family. It's a quiet Sunday and we walked around a little, window shopping, church visiting, ice cream eating (of course) and enjoying a little bar grub and Kölsch.

Köln is a place I'd love to visit again because I think it's whatever city you want it to be. It can be a days-long party with a group of friends, a romantic getaway, a family-friendly get away. I think the Dom is always somewhere in that mix, no matter your motivation or reason to visit. It's a city of ever-changing faces, and I can't wait to see which one I will encounter next time I visit.