Saints, Martyrs, Treasures, and Beer; or, Day-tripping in Köln

More summer on the road. . . This time: 
Köln, Germany

July 17-18, 2016

After venturing for a few days trips on our own, including our maiden voyage on the Autobahn, we decided to go big AND go home. We rented an Audi A3 and drove like a bat out of hell across Germany, including to a place my husband sent a few years as a child. Before we got there, we first made a pit stop in Köln for the night.

What to know

First, in America it's Cologne, but now that you are in Germany, it's Köln. My German pronunciation is absolutely atrocious, so I just say it the American way but spell it the German way. . .

I visited Köln and its Dom, or Cathedral,  4 years ago, and my husband visited it, well. . . about 40 years ago. But that's okay. It's was the first trip for both the kids, and it never ceases to amaze, whether it's your first, second, or tenth trip.

We came in during the afternoon and stayed until about noon the next day, so we did not get the few days-long experience I had a few years ago. With our main goal to get to Prüm, where my husband lived a few years during the glorious 1970s as a wee lad, we were okay with a little less than 24 hours in the city as a pit stop on the way. I would recommend 2-3 days if you want to experience all there is to do and see in Köln.

Köln has beautiful public artworks (and some very whimsical ones, like a giant upside-down ice cream cone on the corner of a building). If you walk along the Rhine river, you'll find a chocolate museum. There are outdoor cafés and fine dining, and a shopping district with everything you can imagine you'd want to buy.

Cultural stuff and what to see 

The first thing you notice when you drive into town is the Dom---the Cologne Cathedral. It defines the skyline and really symbolizes the city. The Cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (boy, we seem to pick a lot of those for this vacation), noted for being "an exceptional work of human creative genius" and "a powerful testimony to the strength and persistence of the Christian belief in medieval and modern Europe."

I've heard two stories about Köln during WWII. The undisputed fact is the city was completely flattened, save the Dom. And even it was heavily damaged in areas. One story goes that the Allied forces were told not to destroy the beautiful and historical church and out of respect, tried not to bomb it. The other story is the Dom, with its enormous size and distinctive footprint, made an easy-to-spot landmark for raids and bombings, so it was spared for its navigational use.

It's sort of like Life of Pi. Do you want to believe a more cynical or a more benevolent version of the story? The truth is probably a lot more complicated, and being neither German nor a historian, I'm not going to weigh in on this one.

You walk up and notice how massive it is. You also notice that it seems to be in a constant state of renovation. There is always scaffolding somewhere around the building.

From the outside, the detail of the stonework is amazing. You want a Gothic cathedral, you've got one here. You've got your flying buttresses. You've got your towers. There are gargoyles and downspouts, and everywhere you look, there seem to be saints hiding in many nooks and crannies.

The gargoyles are downspouts are animals, demons, and demonic chimeras---seriously creepy stuff going on. As cute as the dog is above, he's probably supposed to be some hound of hell.

As you get closer, the detail is mind-blowing. Over the doorways, and even the door handles, all have some sort of decorative nature, mostly of some saint I don't know or some symbolism I don't understand. Not being Catholic has its disadvantages when you decide to go cathedral-hoping through Europe. 

The Dom is a working church, so there are scheduled services. You see people lighting candles and there are confessional booths all over (although I didn't see anyone entering or exiting). I was here in 2012, so I knew what to expect walking in, but still. . . when I entered, I literally gasped and clasped my hands to my heart, because it is such a beautiful space and it truly takes my breath away. Being neither Catholic nor particularly religious, I can't really explain how I feel about this place, but it's definitely somewhere that touches my heart and makes me feel honored to be in such a sacred space.

You can pay to view the tombs below or climb the towers, but we didn't choose either. However, we did go on a self-tour of the treasures of the Dom. We took an elevator to what seemed to be a basement---the walls were hundreds of years old, and there were gorgeous tunics embroidered with gold, crowns, scepters, and many pieces made of precious metals and encrusted with stones. Many belonged to famous archbishops and there were artifacts from various saints. 

We were good little tourists and did not take pictures (because that's what the sign clearly said---a camera with a line through it is pretty clear), so you'll just have to use your imagination.  I found the artifacts beautiful, but I prefer what's inside the Dom over the treasure underneath. 

Being non-Catholic and not really understand who all the saints are (that appears to be the ongoing theme of this story) didn't deter me from recognizing this guy: 

St. Christopher! Patron Saint of Travelers

Also at the feet of many tombs in effigy there are angels, lions, and dogs. I heard a guide tell a group that lions and dogs at the feet of the tombs symbolize loyalty. 

cute little cherub

dogs and lions at the feet

Who are buried in these tombs? Crusaders, archbishops. Many religious martyrs. Important Catholic people. Did I mention that I'm not Catholic??? And that it all sort of confuses me? But that's okay, too. We saw people from all over the world, speaking several languages, taking in the beauty of the Dom. I'm guess many were not Catholic, either, but you don't have to be of that faith (or any faith, really) to enjoy a beautiful building that has survived war, political turmoil, and even the elements. 

tomb of the Three Wise Men---I do know who they are, thankyouverymuch.

Tapestries, tombs, mosaics, and monuments---that's just one small part of what you see at the Dom. I strongly suggest paying the 1€ donation and getting a brochure. There's a map and enough info that you can do a self-guided tour. I prefer the walking-around-and-gawking method of visiting cathedrals, but if you are truly into the symbolism, mythology, and stories behind all the artifacts, I know they have English language tours available for a small fee.

I love the stained glass windows, the mosaic floors, and the different materials used throughout to create religious tributes and monuments---fabric, wood, metals, and stone. 

Other Diversions

Other than the Dom, I suggest you find a bar that serves Kölsch. (First church, then beer. That's definitely not something you are taught to do in the Baptist church). It's a barley pale-ale served in short, thin glasses. The waiters bring them around in a carrier that has anywhere from 5-20 in it. They keep the beer coming until you tell them to stop. It's not like drinking a dark stout out of a large stein, so it's okay (at least for a little while) to keep them coming. Kölsch tastes light and refreshing, especially since it's HOT during the afternoons in July in Köln (and very few buildings, especially the older ones, are air conditioned).

Being Sunday, many of the stores were closed (this is very common throughout Germany), so we did a little window shopping and checked in early to rest up for our next day's adventure to Prüm and then Metz, France.

What I learned

When I was here in 2012, I was with a group of adults who were ready to eat, shop, and drink. We also took in the Dom, but we walked, walked, walked, and stayed a few days in the process. In addition, it was Gay Pride weekend. I have managed to somehow catch several cities during Gay Pride during vacation (no complaints---definitely entertaining), but that was one of the wildest and craziest ones I've ever witnessed.

So a few years later, here I am with my little family. It's a quiet Sunday and we walked around a little, window shopping, church visiting, ice cream eating (of course) and enjoying a little bar grub and Kölsch.

Köln is a place I'd love to visit again because I think it's whatever city you want it to be. It can be a days-long party with a group of friends, a romantic getaway, a family-friendly get away. I think the Dom is always somewhere in that mix, no matter your motivation or reason to visit. It's a city of ever-changing faces, and I can't wait to see which one I will encounter next time I visit. 

Stevie Ray, Churches Galore and More; or, Macedonia Part 2

Macedonia
July 10-14
I *heart* Macedonia.
If I had only visited Skopje, I would have felt that way. However, after taking a 2 day detour to a village on a lake, I realized that love the country even that much more.

Ohrid is NOT Skopje. We're talking night and day here.

So here's what you need to know.

two happy boys looking over Lake Ohrid

Why Ohrid, Macedonia? 

Lake Ohrid is one of the oldest lakes in the world, and THE oldest lake in Europe. Think about that for a moment!  Two-thirds of it in is located in Macedonia and the other 1/3 in Albania.

We visited the town of Ohrid on the Macedonian side of the lake. It is a thriving resort town in the summer time, with small hotels, boutique and tourist shops, sidewalk cafes, and restaurants. I had read that it is very crowded during summer vacation season, but either we were a little early for the big crowds, or the crowds we encountered weren't that big. In addition to the beautiful lake, Ohrid is most notable for once having 365 churches, one for every day of the year. It is built on hills and cliffs over the lake, requiring quite a bit of walking and hiking if you want to see it all, and with some foot trails barely wide enough for 2 people.

Also, to answer why Ohrid?---if you didn't quite catch my last post, Macedonians are very proud of their country and their history. My host and her sister love the peaceful, historical atmosphere and were passionate about us experiencing this beautiful little town. I'm so happy we did.

The Ohrid region has the rare distinction of being both an UNESCO Natural and Cultural site. The lake itself is between two and three MILLION years old and hosts unique species of fish and fauna. The town of Ohrid is one of the oldest settlements in Europe and archeologists have excavated basilicas from as old as the 4th and 5th centuries. The village is known for its masonry and many ancient homes that have been excavated exhibit beautiful mosaic work. Many current homes are from the 18th and 19th centuries. Some of my friend's family have lived in Ohrid for generations, and during a renovation of their house, found mosaics and artifacts dating back thousands of years.

Getting there

on the road again. . . 

We loaded two cars with seven people and headed on a winding road to Ohrid. Even though it snakes around a few mountain passes, the road is in great shape. The trip takes about 2 1/2 hours from Skopje.

We hit a large rest area about half way there that had a gas station, small restaurant, and another walk-up restaurant across the street. Many tour busses had stopped in the area, and as in much of Macedonia, stray dogs were around waiting for a snack or two.

While there, the kids got gelato. Gelato is big all over Europe; in all countries we visited, we'd see people of all ages eating it, day or night. As in Germany, it was fresh with homemade waffle cones. The difference is that in Germany, a scoop of gelato is about 1€, or about U.S. $1.10. In Macedonia, it's 15 Denar, or about U.S. 27¢. And that's typical for most food---the price of food (and many other amenities) is significantly less in Macedonia than anywhere else we visited in Europe.

The grown ups went for some Nespresso (it's instant coffee, with George Clooney as the spokesperson, and big all over Europe) and also some fresh pastries. That's when I had one of those really, really weird other-worldly moments you sometimes have when traveling. Drinking my coffee and chowing down on carbs, I heard some blues music. Some familiar blues music. Then I realized the music I was listening to was none other than Stevie Ray Vaughn. Basically we are sitting in the middle of nowhere, Macedonia, eating pastries and cheap gelato and sipping Nespresso and listening to one of Texas' favorite sons. 

About that time, we also decided to pick up two hitchhikers (sort of sounds like the start to a horror movie, right?). No worries, hitchhiking is relatively safe in Europe and these were two college students who were trying to make their way across all the Balkan states, mostly by hitching rides. We finally got to Ohrid, had a beer together with the extra travelers, speaking enough of a combination of Slovenian, Macedonian, and English to understand each other, and then went our separate ways.

On the way to Ohrid I also couldn't help but notice the many, many villages which all had mosques in the center. This is Muslim country in Macedonia. Many Muslims of Albanian background live in this part of the country, and Albania, unlike Macedonia, is a majority Muslim country. 

What to do and see
When you are in a town of 365 churches, obviously you are going to see churches. 

St. Sophia (Sveti Sophia)

Sveti Sophia dates from the 6th century. During the Turkish rule of the area, the church was converted into a mosque and the Christian frescoes were covered. The Turks also added architecture representative of their culture that still exists today. We were not allowed to take pictures inside, but we did see the frescoes that are slowly being uncovered and repaired as the mosque became a church again. The restoration is a work in progress, but the building is in amazing shape to be so ancient. We also saw evidence from WW2 Nazis who came through and carved the German cross into the pillars of the church. (Stupid Nazis). 

In addition to Sveti Sophia, we walked the long, winding, arduous hill to the highest part of the town to see St. Jovan of Kaneo Monastery. With its gorgeous Byzantine architecture and views, it was worth the hike (even if my kid complained the ENTIRE TIME). It was founded in the 13th century.

The basket by the door to the monastery says, "If you wearing shorts top short skirt please put on a wrap from the basket. Thank you for respecting the holiness of the church."

one of many tiny churches on our hike around Ohrid 

We spent the rest of the day sightseeing, eating, and window-shopping. There were beautiful freshwater pearls and artwork; more gelato, pizza, and amazing cheeses; more stray dogs to pet and lots of turtles all over the place; people walking on the lakeshore front and eating on sidewalk cafes.

We had a wonderful meal for three children and four adults that consisted of several entrees (we ordered extra so I could sample typical Macedonian cuisine), appetizers and salads, drinks, and a dessert. The total came to $60. That's for EVERYTHING. Can you believe it? Hotels are also very reasonable (and unlike lots of European hotels, they are air conditioned). There were lots of choices of restaurants, including many outdoor options so we could take advantage of the beautiful weather, and the kids had a great time feeding the fish on the waterfront.

Ohrid seems like a great getaway for people of all ages. We saw young and old families, families on bikes and walking with strollers, little children on tricycles. We saw several Muslim families---blonde, blue-eyed, Albanian Muslim families. I didn't see very many Americans, although we met a Macedonian couple who live in Florida, and they have lived in the U.S. for over 20 years. They were visiting Ohrid on vacation because it's their favorite place to go while back home.

What I learned: 
Overall, I loved visiting a town full of ancient history to balance out a city that is still, in many ways, trying to find its history and identity. As far as going to a town of churches, I found the experience very peaceful, even if I didn't grow up in a faith with saints and I'm desperately trying to remember what little I know about them when my youngest asks, "who is that guy?" or "why is that church named for that person?" But nobody thought I was a heathen when I asked, thankfully, and my saint confusion was the constant theme of all my church visits in Europe.

I had a great moment meeting Ana's aunt, who is also a librarian. The word for librarian in Macedonian is very close to the word in Spanish, bibliotecaria. The word for library is close to the word biblioteca. I said something about the words must have the same Greek root, but was quickly told that no, Macedonian does NOT have words from Greek. Those Greeks, again! They can't have the country name, or claim Alexander as all their own, or get the credit for the Macedonian language (even if it is only a few words). Macedonians are independent (and don't you forget it).

I know I'm showing my American-ness, but I just can't get over how old things are in this area. When the Mayans were just starting to build Chichen Itza, some of these churches had already been in use for generations. Walking around Ohrid, you see lots of modern cars (and many mopeds), but you know what else you see? Yugos. Remember Yugos? They are EVERYWHERE, and seeing so many of them in use made me smile. That's sort of like Ohrid. There is enough modern to catch your attention---great modern restaurants and hotels---but overall, there's a nostalgia that holds it all together.