Friday, September 30, 2016

Travel Time; or, More for Less


I have friends who have asked (some in a round about way, others who have just come out and point-blank asked) how did you go to Europe for almost a month? Isn't it expensive?


Well, yes, And no.


Here's what I have always told my students for 20+ years: you will have dozens of friends and acquaintances once you graduate high school. Love or hate facebook and other social media today, it does make it easy to keep in touch. And also it's easier to meet friends of friends.


Chances are, you have friends, family members, or former colleagues who are living in a beautiful and interesting place in the US or overseas. They may be stationed somewhere with the military or there for a job or school.


You know when someone says, "Hey, I'm living in _________ now. You should come out and visit!"


Well, you should do that.





Seriously.






It is simple as that.



Loch Ness, Scotland, April 2002

Here's the other thing----
Most of my friends don't live in an isolated area where they literally have 2-3 choices for dining (and none are great---or expensive), where they can go 3-4 weeks on a tank of gas because the commute is so short, and where they drive a beater car because you would be foolish to drive a nice car in a place with very limited auto repair facilities. 


We also don't pay a mortgage or utilities here---it's provided free as part of the "perks" of living here. 


I bitch, moan, and complain about living here sometimes (many times), and island fever is a real thing and I sometimes worry about going all Jack Nicholson-The Shining on people, but life is cheap and entertainment is limited and sometimes (many times) life is boring here. Our survival tactic is to budget a little bit of civilization into our lives during the summer in the form of travel.  



Glasgow, Scotland 2002
Mission District, San Francisco. 2001
Chinatown, NYC. Dec. 2004
So back to travel and cheapness. Even if you have bills and you have limited vacation time (or unpaid vacation time), for a little more than the price of a plane ticket (or gas, if driving cross-country is your thing), you can have a fabulous vacation.

There are friends and friends of friends. You would be shocked once you start asking around at how many people are willing to take a total stranger in for a week (or longer). I've had friends and former students offer to contact relatives in far away countries to put me up for vacation. There are hostels and Couch Surfing and small, family run hotels. There is also Air BnB and people who know people who are looking for house sitters during the summer. It's not the Ritz, but you can either spend, spend, spend, and only go on vacation once in a blue moon, or you can do it on the cheap and learn about other cultures in the process. We are lucky and know people who live all over the country and the world, so we were able to visit Germany and Macedonia while staying with friends. I loved it because we don't see them often, and you get a unique perspective staying with someone from the community where you are visiting. 



Baden Baden Germany, 2012


There are also advantages and disadvantages to doing package deals or DIY travel. 

Last summer we found a great deal on a vacation to Mexico through Travelocity. My husband called a service rep to ask about arranging transportation from the airport to the hotel, and through that conversation, we ended up getting two weeks for a little more than the one week price, and two rooms for the price of one. We didn't have to figure out all the logistics of a hotel, flight, and other transportation because we did it as a one-stop shop. Sometimes this works best (especially if trying to coordinate all these things causes you major anxiety, like it does me). For a family with 2 kids, including one child under the age of 10, this was also the best trip option for us at the time. 


This year we went through the website SkyScanner and found great air deals with airlines not usually featured on the big travel websites. We flew Condor to Frankfurt. There are several no-frills airlines out there---Wow is another one---where you have to decide, do I want to carry a huge suitcase, or do I want to pay less than half price for a ticket that requires me to bring no more than 5 outfits? Movies, large suitcase check, meals, alcohol---these are all extra on no-frills airlines, but there is no way it adds up to what you pay for a ticket on major airlines. Our son traveled on another cheap airline from Germany---TAP, out of Portugal. 

My bright green carry-on got me through Europe for a month.
Through SkyScanner and Travelocity, Orbitz or Kayak, Travelwatchdog or any other travel site that sends you monthly (or weekly) travel deals, you can find great prices on tickets. We have airline miles and get emails from those companies, as well. It takes some time to go through and find the best price, but if you are paying outright for your tickets, sometimes you have to do a little work. 

A great option for those people who do pay monthly bills, credit cards that have travel miles can get you tickets quickly. A few of my friends are very thrifty and can follow a budget, so they put all their monthly expenses on a credit card, pay them off immediately, and get enough miles for 2-3 trips a year. If we ever get back to the real world of making monthly payments for a mortgage or utilities, I will definitely consider doing this. 


Traveling via train and small airlines is a great deal in Europe. For $20, 30, or 40 you can fly round trip to another country, spend a couple of days in a hostel or cheaper hotel, and spend a few days for less than a single day in some of the big US travel destinations. Bus travel is another option---we've been all over Mexico in buses. Just make sure to learn about the different classes of buses and get one that is air-conditioned and has a bathroom. The price difference is usually only a few dollars. 


I have friends who love Disney and go every single year. This is great if it's your thing. Personally, I hate big crowds. The thought of standing in line for an hour makes my stomach churn.


As I told my parents once, why would someone want to spend thousands of dollars to see pretend countries at Epcot, when you can enjoy a real country (and for a longer period of time) for much, much  less?



And honestly, the best secret of cheap travel is knowing a teacher. Teachers get paid for the days we work (usually around 190 a year) and most have the option of getting those paychecks stretched out over the summer. We get anywhere from 6-8 weeks off in the summer for vacation (unpaid vacation---I mentioned that we don't get paid for that time off, right?!?!). Many teachers are great at budgeting to have extra money in the summer.  Many of us are also very good at scrimping and saving because, face it, we are getting paid a whole lot less than many of our non-teaching friends. But hey, we get the (unpaid) summer!!

Teachers for the most part also are curious about the world. Teachers are perpetual students. Depending on what we teach, we are always reading and learning about other cultures, other parts of the world.


So find a cheap, adventurous teacher friend, and I can promise you he or she will have great ideas on how to travel for little money. I was lucky and found a teacher friend who has been my travel buddy to New Orleans for Mardi Gras and San Francisco for a wedding. She has lived in Scotland and Germany and I've been to visit her at both locations. For 18 years now, she has helped me wrap my head around travel because I am awful at planning trips (thus the all-for-one stop vacation destinations when I plan a trip). 


The bottom line is whether it's a last minute deal on a travel site to a city in the US or a week-long trip to another country, you owe it to yourself to see how the rest of the world lives. Climbing pyramids in Mexico, driving through Monument Valley, searching for the Loch Ness monster, getting lost amongst the canals of Amsterdam, and watching my kids order pastries in Germany are memories I'll cherish forever. I've given up a life of a new (or even a nice) car, a big house, and a large wardrobe. I no longer spend lots of money on first edition books, my big, nerdy, expensive hobby. I love my mis-mash of old and new furniture and don't really care that it doesn't always match. I made a decision in my 40s to give up material things for a life of experiences.

It's difficult living far away from my US family here in Cuba, but it's also made these experiences possible. I know it's not for everyone---my friends who have made roots (especially my friends in my hometown of Monticello, MS) have something I wish I had---the desire to stay in one place. They have a present that is set in a history that is slowly fading from my memory, and I feel a lot of sadness when I go back and realize I don't recognize people anymore and don't know or remember most the people they are talking about. They have a life many of my own students, who have lived nothing but a peripatetic life, would love to have. And many of them also manage to have their own adventures---and have a home to return to.

Home for me is with my family, not a place. But for those of you who have a home that is a place---cherish it. Be proud that you know what you want and you know where you want to live. I may get there one day, who knows. In the meanwhile. . . hit me up and maybe we'll plan the next great adventure together.

Saturday, September 17, 2016

Toe Magic, Those Aren't Chickens!, and More; or, A Spa Trip to Czech Republic

Františkovy Làzně, Czech Republic

July 25-26, 2016

Frantis. . . wha? That's basically what I said to my friend when she said we were going to the Czech Republic. 

I'll be the first to admit that all I know about the Czech Republic is that it was once part of Czechoslovakia, and Prague is somewhere in there. One day in this little town was not really enough to enjoy what it has to offer, but it is a great (and really cheap) destination for a spa get-away. 




almost all buildings are a buttery-yellow color, 
and the town is charming and easy to walk around

Why visit a small town with a big name?  


F-L is part of the "Bohemian spa triangle" and is a candidate for inclusion as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (I didn't mention this in the last post, but Metz is also on the candidate list). 

Unlike my other adventures, this was a girls-only trip. My host Anna, another Lori (who also is an USM alum AND a Mississippian!) and I drove the couple of hours from her house in Vilseck to the Czech Republic. The drive through Bavaria is always beautiful, and going into the Czech Republic was not a major ordeal. Or even a minor one. 


The Czech Republic is part of the European Union, but unlike most EU countries, it does not use the Euro. Instead, it uses the Czech Koruna. 







That being said, many businesses and restaurants will take the euro (and probably American dollars, if you ask). What I did learn through various signs in the area (and the internet, of course) is this used to be part of the Bohemian province of Austria-Hungary until WWI, and after WWII, the Germans were expelled by the Allies as part of an effort to ethnically cleanse E Europe of Germans. Wow. When you visit today, many people speak fluent German, and many speak English. It is a spa town with a large influx of tourists yearly, although I did not see any other Americans while I was there. The mineral springs there are known for their healing properties, and people have come for hundreds of years to this area for spa treatments and "cures." 

What to do and see


While in Františkovy Láznē, we stayed at the Wellness Hotel Ida. This is a family run hotel and we met 2 Idas there--a mother and daughter. The hotel building is from the early 1800s. The rooms have been recently renovated and are modern and clean, yet with the tall, vaulted ceilings and lovely balcony, I was always aware that we were staying in a historical building. No air conditioning, but the evening breeze made it more than bearable. 



If you are been to a hotel/spa, this one is not fancy by any means, but it as much to offer as many high-dollar spas in the US. When you arrive, you have a "menu" of spa choices----everything from a traditional massage to stone massage to reflexology. I chose a head massage and reflexology. I hadn't had either before. 


The massage area is not like any other I've been to. The windows were wide open and a fresh breeze was blowing in. No whale sounds or sea gulls or any of that other cheesy music---just the sounds of the outdoors. No low lights, either---lots of natural sunlight. I knew this was going to be a little different experience. 


The head massage was. . . interesting. At one point, my masseuse was pulling my hair, which is odd but also oddly relaxing. He did some work on my head and face based on pressure points---at least I think that's what he was doing, because he didn't speak any English, and I don't speak German or Czech. 


I immediately thought, "wow, I should have just opted for a traditional massage." I had a pinched nerve under my shoulder blade that hurt so much, I hadn't been able to lift my arm for a few days. But with that whole language barrier, there was no way I could tell him that, and I didn't even think about it when I was setting up my appointments with one of the English speaking Idas. 


Then came the foot reflexology. I didn't know much about reflexology---I just knew that my tired feet hurt and thought a foot massage would be amazing.





source: http://reflexology-map.com/hands-map/


Holy cow. I don't know what wizardry/voodoo/magic was involved, but I'm telling you---it was amazing. And I will definitely do that again. 

The masseuse worked on each toe and various parts of my feet doing different things, sometimes kneading them and sometimes rubbing his hands together and putting heat to them. Suddenly he stopped on one specific toe and worked a long time.  It was weird, but I knew he was doing it for some purpose. Once my time was up, he pantomimed to my hurt shoulder blade. Again, I had never told him that it hurt, but somehow by working on my feet, he a)knew I had a pinched nerve and b) knew how to make it stop hurting. 


Magic, I tell ya! 



Otherwise, I enjoyed walking around the cute little town. Goethe and Beethoven both came here for the healing waters. (Those waters, incidentally, smell a little too much of sulphur for me to drink them). 


The town has a cute little train that for a small price will take you around. The tour is in Czech (or maybe German---again, that whole language thing)---and it weaved through a pretty little park and by more 19th century beautiful yellow buildings, colonnades, and small fountains. 


Can you find us on the train? 
On the train, we passed a hotel with sculptures on the grounds. What are those? Chickens? They looked so interesting from afar. 

And then close-up, it was a whole other story. Those aren't chickens. . .  

Those aren't chickens. They are nekkid people. Oh my. . . 
Those are some freaky pieces of modern art. It's like everyone has their heads up their. . . posteriors. 

The town is small but charming. There are a few little shops and our hotel had a nice restaurant. I enjoyed walking around and seeing the signs---I'm a little obsessed with signs in other languages. 


And then we sadly missed a local production of Romeo and Juliet: 


and even more sadly, we missed the local drag show: 

We did see this sweet little monument for the American troops who liberated Frantiskovy Lazne during WWII: 


The take away: 

If you are not living or staying in the Bavaria region of Germany (or anywhere else in Eastern Europe), you may not think of this as a destination. As I mentioned with our Macedonian trip, there are really, REALLY reasonable airfares from smaller airlines once you are in Europe. Depending on where you are, you can spend much MUCH less on a round trip ticket to the Czech Republic than on a full tank of gas (and yes, gas is very expensive in Europe). So if you are spending a week in London and get bored (I guess that can happen. . . ), consider taking a 2 day trip to Eastern Europe where hotels and food are SO much more reasonable, and you find unexpected adventures in places you never would have considered visiting. 

When most Americans think of visiting Europe, they first think of France, Germany, and Italy. Those seem to be at the top of people's wish lists. 


I found a rural area of the Czech Republic and the country of Macedonia as both wonderful surprises. The food is inexpensive and good. The accommodations are also inexpensive and modern. People are lovely and very accommodating. When you are one of a few Americans, you don't have to worry about other obnoxious Americans giving your country a horrible reputation (something we run into every time we visit Mexico). You will run into a slower pace of life in many ways, where you are encouraged to sit a while and enjoy a meal. Store clerks don't follow you around. Waiters don't hover over you. People may wait in line patiently like Americans, or may feel the need (as they did MANY times in Germany) to just cut line because they don't want to wait. And you can choose to get angry or realize it's a ridiculous thing to stress about. We'll all get through line eventually. 


I think with Europe I've come back a little more patient about some things, and quiet frankly, more pissed off about others. Getting my son from Europe to the US was easy; getting him from the US to GTMO was an utterly frustrating, exasperating, and expensive process. I miss the fresh and nutritious food we had in Europe. I miss the cost of things---groceries are a LOT more expensive at our commissary than the commissaries we visited in Germany. And it's our only choice. I miss driving in the countryside (and driving over 35 mph). Yes, it's a slower pace of life here, but in a frustrating, bureaucratic sort of way. I can still only dream of getting that magic ticket and FINALLY getting out of here after five years. 


But we'll always have Germany/France/Macedonia/Czech Republic, right?  


NEXT TIME: 

More on travel (as in, how to spend a month overseas for cheap) and "letting" my son spend a couple of months on his own traveling all over Europe (and a little of Africa).